Growing Vandas indoors and in greenhouses
Few orchids make such an impact as vandas. Known for their spectacular, long-lasting flowers in vivid blues, purples, pinks, and oranges, they are showpieces in any collection. Their dramatic aerial root systems and preference for good light make them among the more demanding orchids, but with the right care they will reward you with repeated, dazzling displays throughout the year.
OVERVIEW
Today, the genus Vanda is said to include 89 recognised species (Source: Kew.org 2025). Modern taxonomy has recently absorbed related genera such as Ascocentrum and Neofinetia into Vanda, expanding the group. Vandas are native to tropical Asia from India through Southeast Asia to the Philippines and northern Australia. Many hybrids have been bred in Thailand, Singapore and Hawaii to create striking colours and larger flowers.
Vandas are monopodial orchids – they grow upwards from a single point, producing leaves in two ranks, with roots emerging all along the stem. They can develop keikis from the main stem (“keiki” is a Hawaiian word meaning baby or child). In orchids, it refers to a small plantlet that develops on the main plant. With vandas, keikis usually emerge from the stem or near the base of the plant, forming their own leaves and aerial roots while still attached to the mother plant. They can be left on the plant and in a few years will add to the bloom show, or they can be separated once they have their own root system to sustain themselves.
Vandas do not produce pseudobulbs.
Vanda Sunanda ‘ Lavender Sprinkles’
Their growing rhythm is less seasonal and more continuous:
1. New growth (year-round) – stem elongates, leaves and roots develop
2. Flower spike formation (any season, often 2–3 times/year) – spikes emerge from leaf axils
3. Flowering – blooms may last several weeks, especially in hybrids
4. Short rests – growth slows slightly after flowering, but no strict dormancy
Vanda Kanchana 'Ansu No 1'
Vandachostylis (Charm x Lou Sneary)
CARE ESSENTIALS
■ Light
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Good light: 3,000–6,000 foot-candles or a hand held 30cm above the leaves at noon should cast a defined yet diffuse shadow
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South-facing windows or bright conservatories are best.
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Use sheer curtains to prevent leaf scorch if sun is very strong.
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Artificial lights: full-spectrum grow lights, 12–14 hrs/day in winter.
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Leaf guide: Medium green = healthy; dark green = too little light; yellowish = too much light.
■ Temperature
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Daytime temperature range of 23C to 35C, nighttime average of 14C to 22C.
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Highland species or hybrids prefer temperatures at the lower end of these ranges, and lower maximums.
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Maintain a distinct day-night differential of at least 10C.
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Warm-growing types may suffer leaf-loss if temperatures drop too low at night.
■ Watering and humidity
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Roots should be watered daily in summer, every 2–3 days in cooler months – always ensure water is tepid.
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For bare-root vandas (in baskets or hanging): drench roots until they turn green. This can be done by soaking the roots of the plant in a bucket of fertilised water for 20 minutes, allowing them to dry before next watering. Avoid letting water collect between the leaf axils.
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Potted vandas (in coarse bark or leca): water thoroughly until the roots turn green, but take care to avoid saturation. Allow the potting mix to dry before watering again.
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70–90% humidity is ideal. It is essential to provide strong air movement to reduce the likelihood of fungal problems.
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Misting is beneficial, but never leave roots constantly wet.
■ Fertilising
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·"Weakly, weekly” – dilute orchid fertiliser (balanced 20N-20P-20K or 30N-10P-10K in growth).
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Switch to high-potassium feed (10N-30P-20K) before and during flowering.
- Feed every 2–3 days when watering daily.
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Flush roots with plain water once a week to prevent salt build-up.
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Unless you can provide optimal light and temperatures year round, fertilising can be reduced during winter when plant growth slows down.
■ Potting and repotting
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Vandas are traditionally grown bare-root in slatted baskets or in a small plastic pot which allows you to secure a wire hanger at the base, enabling the roots to hang freely. Tension rods fixed across a bright window form a perfect indoor solution for displaying them.
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Repotting is rarely needed; instead, transfer to larger baskets as root mass expands.
- Never trim healthy roots – they are vital for water and nutrient uptake.
Vanda falcata 'Ootakamaru'
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
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Large-flowered vandas – e.g. Vanda coerulea, V. tricolor, V. sanderiana. Require good light and warmth (V. coerulea prefers cooler temperatures), often bloom more than once a year.
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Compact and miniature vandas – e.g. former Ascocentrum species (V. miniata, V. ampullacea) and V. falcata (formerly Neofinetia). Easier to grow indoors on windowsills, tolerate slightly lower light and humidity.
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Terete-leaved vandas – e.g. Papilionanthe teres. Adapted to full sun with cylindrical leaves that resist desiccation; greenhouse and very bright conditions are essential – these are the most difficult types to grow in the UK.
SUMMARY
Vandas are among the most dramatic and rewarding orchids, producing vivid, long-lasting and sometimes fragrant flowers. Their needs are demanding – bright light, warmth, frequent watering, and high humidity – but by replicating their tropical habitat, growers in the UK can succeed. Compact vandas offer an excellent option for smaller spaces, while larger types thrive in greenhouses and bright conservatories. With patience and consistent care, vandas will become the true showpieces of your orchid collection.